Sunday, February 6, 2011

Piano Refinishing

Questions about Piano Refinishing


Almost a  grand old age of 85. Sounds and finish of great value if I do.
Has anyone finished their pianos? What products did you use?
This piano has paint on it that has turned black.

I'm also doing this in the house so not a chemical smell of danger is not necessary. I'm not afraid of work. I will be protecting the insides with plastic.

Advice 1:

How many other things you finished? A piano is not a good piece of furniture to start with, especially a large one. You know what to do when the colors do not match, for example?

How big is your house? Dismantling of a piano to take up a lot of the finish area. Avoiding any chemical risk is difficult at best. This will be a big mess. You do not have the expertise and equipment for moving pianos, as they require removal?

How valuable is your time? If you're willing to spend at least two or three months on this project? How good are you just sit and watch paint dry? This is a great piece of work. Remember that you will not be able to play the piano, while you do this.

What will you do if you mess up when the job?

Advice 2:

Another problem is the dust. I finished a column a few years ago. I avoided Sanders machine of any kind and absolutely no chemicals used in stripping based on my previous mobile experience.

Even if you protect the innards, you have to do with the dust - in particular the fine paid by fine-grade sandpaper. These particles can not be environmentally offensive, but could be depending on the original finish. They pervade every corner of your room, and possibly your entire stay.

In my case, more upright panels can be disassembled and taken to the garage for your attention. This is not the case of a large, curved surfaces and a case of big (along with curved legs and intricate details) presents special problems.

I wonder if it will be a fun project.

Advice 3:

In order to get the old paint to go soft is going to have to use some type of chemical or methyl hydrate and dichloromethane, both of which are not good to have around the house in large quantities if you are looking for health problems .

Both these products will melt plastic sheets ... ... ... ... ... so that one is out before you start.

The entire cabinet should be removed, all the hardware and then labeled cleaned after all the felt trim will be replaced and the buttons and knobs, rubber desk to do too much.

The pedals must be removed and then re-assembled with a new bushing kit.

You do not have to sand the boards if you want to have the same color or darker. But what is the piano to finish with? You do not have spray equipment and a properly ventilated stand?

The new finishes are also volatile chemicals and gases are vented outside the building to be discharged properly, or you could raise the foundations of a few meters to explode ... ... ... .. Remember the refrigerator has a solenoid that sparks and so does the oven ... ... ...

Advice 4:

a spot test first, and perhaps a little sand with 320 Clean - you may be surprised.
Have you considered trying an amalgam? It works on lacquer controlled, not sure about paint, but it might. E 'brushed or sprayed, allowed to soften and melt the finish. Can you help flatten a bit 'with a brush and then spray some clear on it at it. Sand and polish.
I tried the 3M stripper safety - be prepared to wait a long time - the time needed to soften the glue veneer. A frend romove used to clear up only a small part, not an entire piano - and it worked well for this. Do not remove the fill color and grain, and only the clear is not an easy task though.

Advice 5:

Take your time when stripping. Try not to gouge anything.
Not all parts and patch as required.

Got a bunch of rather effective hands-on work options in this environment:

pads on different layers of schellac to bring out the grain, then finish with wax. This will produce a very nice satin finish that up wood veneers, can often look better than high gloss. It is important to emphasize that there will need to fill the grain, and you can replace relatively quickly, without bothering to attack the parts (from an end-hardened or thickness of the coating itself).

If you have more time, then paint. Get a flat brush squirrel. Many, many thin layers, at least a week of drying between each, rubbed with extra fine wire wool in her hands. This may sound great.

Finally, learn how to French polish. I redid several grands and enjoyed the learning curve, especially as the result (after 100 + hours) far exceeds the thick plastic finishes often applied today (in my opinion of course). To be honest, though, I'd like to avoid this, as it is sooo easy, when we started French polishing to get results is horrible, those reasonable or worse in the months to sink, or worse yet, flowers. Things such as grain filling and suddenly become critical work is ten times greater than we imagined.

Overall, I think that the first option is more feasible. Do not skip schellac though, otherwise you just look dull.

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